The Arrival
The airport hasn’t been built yet. There’s a spindled sleepiness to its shape, the plane parked haphazard between half-filled bags of concrete, grey insides welded together. Shovels spill like spears from leviathan masses - as if Captain Abe said oh sod it boys, give it your best shot and let’s get back onshore - looming in the bright orange light. I like it. Like the fact it is not built, I’m used to that, grew up amongst cement bags and plaster dust, it gives the place a homey feel, an unreal feel, as if I am slipping back into my past, as if we are the first to tread on some far off planet with unfriendly air. Breathe out, breathe in, feel the water touch my tongue. Noses are no good here. All the while we swim through the steam. It falls; drip drip dripping through my clothes, slithers between shoulder blades, trails in a squirming trickle to mid thigh, wraps round an ankle with snakish shudder. We clamber over piles of brick and bags of tumbled citrine stones, stumble across uneven ground, follow the cardboard arrows to the arrivals lounge, blink ourselves sober in the fluorescent light.
Uneven concrete floor with coir mats designates where we’re meant to stand, cathedral height white walls, steel beams supporting the whole. A tiny white clock some twenty foot above us points to dreamtime. On the other side of a narrow black tape I can see bags being pulled off the conveyor by white clad porters who fling them into a jumbled heap. No black suitcase with a splash of purple paint on the side yet though…
…we’ve been in the queue at customs for nearly an hour now. It’s not a long queue. Only our plane to see to but there’s only one desk open and a lot of forms to check. Luckily the door to the ladies is nearby; I’ve drunk nearly a litre of water between getting off the plane and now. God I’d sell my soul for a cigarette. F seems quite happy chewing the nicotine gum I’d packed for the flight but that stuff’s not for me, I tried it 50 minutes out of Gatwick, it tasted like I’d poured boiling water on a packet of Marlboro and then sucked the juice out of the stubs. Since then, whenever it’s got too bad I’ve slugged back some whiskey and held it in my mouth till it burnt the want away but now I crave real smoke.
On either side of us, people are complaining loudly about how long it takes “them” to process a passport. I wish they’d shut their gobs. “Them are probably as tired as we are, it’s late at night or early in the morning, either way we should all be asleep. I’d like to see “us” do the same sodding job in an unfamiliar tongue.
The place is swarming with soldiers. Two were waiting at the foot of the stairs when we got off the plane, two at the door to the arrival lounge, two by the baggage pick-up, more grouped around the exit sign at the faraway end of the hall. They’ve all got guns. Big guns. Really big guns. The ones at the exit are carrying what look like machine guns. It’s making me feel guilty and I haven’t even done anything yet. Although strictly speaking, my passport isn’t really in my name. Well it is, but it’s my birth certificate name and the rest of my ID (bank cards) is in my everyday name. What if they ask me for more ID to process the embarkation card? F wouldn’t be much help. In order to prove that I really am who I say I am and not a terrorist then he’d have to provide ID and not only does he hold a French passport (which doesn’t count) but his passport’s in a different name from his real name too. Maybe we should just become terrorists – I’ve heard that getting the false passport is the trickiest bit and as a career choice it would definitely be taken more seriously than admitting that I’m a graphic designer.
Buggerit mum was right. She told me to sort this out and I didn’t. I was going to when passport ran out next August, but truth to tell, I like my birth certificate name more than I like my real name. It flows better with my forenames and even though I don’t sign it often my signature is better when I use it. Of course I can’t change everything back to my birth certificate name because then I’ll have a different name to mum, dad and herebe and I wouldn’t want that; but vanity aside, I like having this link to my past – like having the same name as Grandpa T, it’s an acknowledgement of his existence. Anglicising it makes him less then he was. Names, proper names, are important. They have power. They strip us down. Bare us to the bone (and the scorn) make us who we are, who we’ve been, what we will become. But right now, with a distinctly un-English name on my passport, in an airport on a Foreign Office high alert – I’m scared. Midnight Express is running through my brain, in shades of blue and grey. “Call the British Consul” on the tip of my tongue (though fat lot of good they do, I’ve read their site. One visit a month and that’s about it). I can see the phrase fly over my shoulder towards F’s disbelieving face as I’m carted off between these beige clad officials with their shiny brass buttons and scarily big guns, anticipate the terror, feel the white gloves on my skin.
We’re almost at the front of the queue. They stop you, at a yellow line and gesture you forward one at a time to stand in the narrow passage formed by two white concrete desks. You can’t see the people behind them, the counters are so high. There are soldiers here too. Two at each side. Watching closely as the passports are stamped, gun barrels peering out over their shoulders.
Though no-one else has done so, even those I knew were travelling together, when the time comes, I’m walking up with F. I grab his hand and squeeze it tight. I’m tired that’s all. We’ve been travelling now for 24 hours straight. The fact that dad was thrown into a cell at gunpoint when he worked in Bombay has nothing whatsoever to do with it. They told him that life here was worth 400 rupees. I wish we’d cashed those travellers’ cheques.
They checked F’s passport first, barely glanced at it before they hand it back. I guess they like the French more than the English and from the way the rest of the queue has behaved I can’t say I blame them. I’ll be searching for a new nationality when I get back.
Then it was my turn. There are 2 men sitting below the counter. I say below because they sit so low that you can only see the top of their heads. One of them was quite young, the other an old man in vivid white. They peered at me and then at my picture, keyed in some details in the machine, read slowly through the embarkation card, looked at me again, flicked slowly through the pages of my passport- and then they stamped.
I couldn’t help it, as soon as the stamp went down; I laugh out loud “I’ve had my passport stamped!” In viridian ink. Bright green ink with swirls and whirls and dates and the scrolls of a strange alphabet. I don’t want a new passport now. Ten years come August I’ve had this one and this is my first stamp. Bugger the EU and their open borders that take all the fun out of travel.
My smile has hit each ear and threatens to meet round the back of my head. “Thank you” I say as they hand the passport back. They both look up, surprised. “You’re welcome” said the old man with a smile.
Another hour spent waiting at baggage reclaim. This is not a busy airport but I suspect, from the wait between one load of luggage and the next, that there is only one trolley to carry the bags from the plane. Whatever the reason, there aren’t many of us left standing here. The cabin crew long since wandered off with a sardonic “good luck”, the bastards. Finally there it is. The very last bag to come through that tattered curtain. Our old black case, with the purple paint splash from when we used it as a ladder to paint the bedroom for mum’s visit all those years ago.
“Cigarette” says F and drags me off towards the exit…
I know. This is the second post about India and we aren’t out of the airport yet. It won’t all be in quite so much detail. But the first few days were so strange, so much of a culture shock that I did write quite a bit about it. Think yourselves lucky - you’re getting the abridged version.